Sucks to be you.
Scuff sand floor between coats.
Use a fine grit paper and run it over the whole floor you don t need much pressure.
Charles recommends you watch the 3 trace co.
Remove the sanding dust first with.
In most cases you will scuff sand a bare surface before applying anything and sand again between coats of paint or sealer.
Even easier for this step though would probably be a pole sander like the kind for drywall seams.
And now you ll have to sand the entire floor with 220 grit sand paper and clean all the dust up.
While it is physically possible to recoat floors like these and even have the new coat bond well the damage will still be visible through the fresh coat of finish effectively preserved under plastic.
Just kidding but i truly do hate sanding when i don t have to.
It s true in my experience that most first coats make you look like a monkey s.
If you do have to sand between coats of polyurethane on floors because you didn t get to the second coat within the required time frame then that s a bummer.
The only type of bond that is possible between coats may be a mechanical bond created by sanding scratches.
But you re correct sanding between coats of poly isn t stripping an old floor it s just scuffing up the previous coat of poly in preparation for the next one.
Use a very fine grit abrasive sanding with the grain of the wood.
You can also sand to take care of drips etc but proper application technique should avoid those.
The finish on the floor in the photo at right is intact but a recoat won t help much.
4 x research source if you are scuffing bare wood or another surface in preparation for priming painting and or staining you will need something between p120 and p150.
Here is what you should look for.
The reasons you may need to sand between coats are to de nib that is to take off dust specs and knock the tops off any bubbles in the finish.
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